Hi this is my 3rd attempt at posting this reply so here goes again.
Also last night and today I couldn't get on the site at all.
Anyways thanks again for all your help Axman, much appreciated.
I guess I haven't made myself clear enough , sorry about that.
I have not purchased a Topham kit.
I counsidered it but decided to go the TDM airbox cover route. I purchased the TDM cover , seal and 135 jets from my local Yamaha dealer as I said previously.
Thanks re the advice Axman re getting 132.5 jets rather than the 135s.
Having another look I found a Mikuni dealer here in the UK, ordered some 132.5s yesterday and they arrived this morning
Besides the 135s flowing more fuel, how have people found the 2 different sizes in relation to feel, power etc ?
I got the carbs off yesterday morning, eventually
Then I left them for a few hours with plusgas on the float bowl screws.
EEEEEEEEEEK
What on earth were Yamaha thinking
What did they decide to araldite them in or something and ooh and lets make them out of plastice as well just for good measure !
I managed eventually getting the wife to hold support them to loosen 6 of them with a T bar philips screw diriver being able to keep a decent amount of down force whilst turning , then hearing a satisfying crack as them gave up their grip and loosened. Of course it goes without saying that the 2 most difficult ones to get at were the ones that were having none of it. So I left them over night with more plusgas soaking.
Today after trying heating with a hairdyer , tapping the heads gently etc etc, still no go and was thinking I was going to have to give up and take them to a local engineer. I had one more go and no 7 screw decided he had played me up enough and came out. Phew. one more to go.
No 8 was a right little so and so and this was the only one that ended up being chewed up.
So no I didn't resort to an impact driver or dremel but very carefully cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver with a hacksaw blade, finally this too gave up the fight and came out
I covered the carbs as best I could to stop and swarf getting in , left the bowls on and have cleaned them to make sure no swarf is hiding. Thats as far as I have got at the moment so am getting there slowly.
I have bought replacement allen bolts when I come to refit the float bowls , coz I am not going through that again
Thanks again for your help Axman.
Regards Foxxy.
Hi Foxxy,
it seems that yesterday we had a bad case of "server-overload"...nobody could get on the site :evil: I talked to Joerg (our webmaster) and he had already spent hours trying to iron out the problems...if you can read this he succeeded :-D
The differences in feel and power between 132,5 and 135 size jets are not much noticed while riding - except that with both jet-sizes the vibrations between 3.000 and 4.200 rpm are very much reduced - but you can see the difference clearly on the dyno-chart. The increase of hp is more or less the same..but the increase in torque is 4Nm better with the 132,5 jets!
But after all the mods, it´s crucial to adjust the CO-settings and to synchronise the carbs...then you´ll have a new bike :-D
When do we start to modify the suspension?? At least the fork is badly in need of an update..
regards
Axman
p.s.: what exactly is "swarf"??
regards
Axman
p.s.: what exactly is "swarf"??
Laut Leo: swarf [tech.] die Metallspäne
Klugscheissende Grüße
Blubber
Moin Ralf,
von "swarf" habe ich tatsächlich noch nie gehört (die Amis nennen das anders ) aber danke, so habe ich etwas dazu gelernt
Gruß
Axel
Hi Axman.
Sorry took a few days to reply,
you know work, family life etc.
Swarf is like small metal particles that result from say either using a file or a saw.
Still getting used to the handling, haven't found a problem yet, so handling mods as and when I feel I need them.
regards Foxxy.
Hi Foxxy,
what I meant with "suspension updates" has nothing to do with handling...what I meant was "safety"!
As the standard fork springs are way too soft, it could be (and has happened ) that in a combination of spirited riding and a right-handed corner, the exhaust header of the front cylinder touches the ground resulting in the bike and rider flying off into the bushes..if you are lucky (here on the Continent you´ll fly into the oncoming traffic...an experience you most certainly can do without.. )
The remedy for this are harder and progressively wound fork springs from "Wilbers" or "Wirth" plus a 10weight fork oil. That is an inexpensive (under 100€ for the springs and maybe 10€ for the fork-oil) solution for this problem.
Regards
Axman